Jarosinski & Vaugoin has spent more than 175 years perfecting the Viennese table, so it knows exactly when to break the rules. Case in point: a polished silver-plated stem crowned with a bowl of burnt lacquer, like something spirited away from an avant-garde cocktail party. Fill it with champagne, but don't stop there; a scoop of sorbet, a sharp martini or a heap of candied fruit at the end of a long lunch all look equally at home. Each one is finished by hand, so no two are quite alike.