Mahnaz CollectionWomen's Vintage 1994 Hermès French Bijoux Touareg Sterling Silver, Carnelian, Ebony and Leather Necklace
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Nazzy Beglari and Mahnaz Collection:
A Meeting of Minds
Nazzy Beglari and Mahnaz Collection:
A Meeting of Minds
The founders on their shared passions for timeless treasures and the power of preservation.
The founders on their shared passions for timeless treasures and the power of preservation.
To thrive in the unique cultural space where product is precious, it stands to reason that passion, patience, and perseverance are virtues. For renowned jewelry collector and curator Mahnaz Ispahani Bartos and textiles and fashion designer Nazzy Beglari, it results in a shared mindset that prizes authenticity, generosity, and a forever spontaneous spirit.
Defined by their individuality and brought together by their insatiable curiosity for cultural idiosyncrasies, the two women are forces of creativity who carry a former life of research and storytelling to their current roles: for New York-based Ispahani Bartos as a former professional in the international security field and for Abu Dhabi-based Beglari as an international journalist for 25 years. Here, they share the life lessons on which their brands and personal style are built.
Mahnaz: “I think a lot of what one does in life goes back to one's beginnings. I have lived through two revolutions, one in Bangladesh and one in Iran, and they taught me what happens when you lose your cultural base. What is so precious about that? That when you move, you lose something very valuable, which is very specific to itself, which has its own cultural feeders, its own crafts, its own language in the arts, and in a variety of fields. Those experiences shaped my thinking about what was precious and how you must reclaim it.”
Mahnaz CollectionWomen's Vintage 1994 Hermès French Bijoux Touareg Sterling Silver, Carnelian, Ebony and Leather Necklace
Nazzy BeglariWomen's Hand-Loomed Ikat Silk and Cotton Reversible Robe | One Size
Mahnaz CollectionWomen's Vintage 1990 Dan Martinez Navajo Concho Sterling Silver, Turquoise and Leather Belt
Mahnaz CollectionWomen's Vintage 1947 Sigurd Persson Swedish Early Sterling Silver Brooch
Nazzy BeglariWomen's Hand-Loomed Silk Dress | One Size
Mahnaz CollectionWomen's Vintage 1950 Schiaparelli Five-Strand Beaded Necklace
Nazzy: “I grew up in a household where my grandmother, who was from Azerbaijan, had the most extraordinary collection of colorful hand-loomed textiles that she'd only display during special occasions. I forgot about them for years when I moved to the US. and then in 2011 I traveled to Bukhara in Uzbekistan which is one of the centers of ikat production. When I saw the handmade textiles, it was shockingly beautiful and a very emotional moment because it was so familiar. Then I realized, “Oh, this is where she got all these fabrics.” I bought everything that I could get hold of. I came back and wasn't sure what to do with them. I designed a few pieces for myself and then the [now former] director of Abu Dhabi Art Fair, Rita Aoun-Abdo, saw me wearing one of them and said she wanted one. That was the beginning of my journey into becoming a designer. I always say I’m an accidental designer!”
Mahnaz: “For me, it didn't have anything to do with a specific object. It just had to do with an experience. Authenticity is important so I want to build collections that I understand in a fundamental way. I've lived in and traveled to so many places, all the while collecting small objects. Jewelry was not something I could do outside my own country, but when I was in Senegal I became obsessed with the little figures and learning all the esoterica. Or if I was in Mali working, I'd take a quick hop to the museum to look at what incredible beauty is created there. The same thing happened to me when I ended up with a home in New Mexico; I absorbed not just a particular kind of jewelry, but the light that permits this kind of jewelry to be made.”
Mahnaz Ispahani Bartos
Nazzy BeglariWomen's Hand-Loomed Ikat Velvet Reversible Robe | One Size
Mahnaz: “Being a scholar, I have a PhD which requires a rigorous form of research because you take a very specific topic, study it to death, and build an enormous body of material to substantiate what you're doing. I think I bring that to jewelry. Commercial people mainly have no interest; the product is just a product that's bought and sold. But for me, I could find it anywhere, and it could cost anything—if there's something about it that speaks to me, I pick it up and add it to our gallery. Some of my team members—who are absolutely fantastic—will groan when they see another seemingly meaningless object. But then the moment comes when that piece becomes relevant, and I say, aha! It spoke to me, but not in a language I understood at first.”
Nazzy: “Design for me has become so similar to journalism because I’m always researching. It’s like when you're searching for new people to interview, and that training has helped me locate wonderful weavers in India. I discovered a family in India that has been weaving double ikat—where both sides are hand-loomed—since the 11th century. And it was so difficult to find them because they didn't have Instagram; it was through different people I finally tracked them down and visited them. I was in awe to see them training the next generation.”
Mahnaz CollectionWomen's Vintage 1980 Jean Mahie French 22-Karat Yellow Gold Clip-On Earrings
Nazzy BeglariWomen's Hand-Loomed Ikat Silk and Cotton Dress | One Size
Mahnaz CollectionWomen's Vintage 1975 Pierre Cardin French Gold-Tone and Silver-Tone Flower Necklace
Mahnaz CollectionWomen's Vintage 1980 Alexis Lahellec Gilt Metal, Resin and Amber Necklace
Nazzy BeglariWomen's Hand-Loomed Silk Dress | One Size
Nazzy: “If you're curious when you travel, you look for history and how people lived in the past—for me, it's better than going to university. Asia specifically gives you that opportunity because there's such a long history. You just need to look at the tile works or textiles—you don't even need to go to the museum. Take a kimono for example; there's a story and purpose for every design and so much to learn. It's self-education. I don't think I know anything about textiles—I've learned so much but there's so much more to learn. And I love that because I have that curiosity to see more to learn more. It keeps me going—it’s a process that's very rewarding.”
Mahnaz: “Curiosity is absolutely central, otherwise there's no learning. If you're not curious, you cannot learn and you don't step far beyond your home. If you're not curious, you don't end up in the Balogun market outside Lagos or in Soviet Russia looking at the dolls that were made during the various coups. It's all about memory and jewelry is very much about that—where did I get this? What community made it? How much you love the imperfections of hand work, and hand fabrication, you know, where it's truly made by hand. You can't, unless you're curious.”
Nazzy: “I see perfection as a flaw. I once asked a carpet historian, why is it that there is always imperfection in a Persian carpet? They said they do it intentionally because the weavers believe only God is perfect and so they make the imperfection intentionally. So, I've learned that I don't want anything to be perfect. We use textiles that are not perfect because they're all hand-dyed. You know, you see flashes of color all over the fabric and we don't cover them, we don't cut them out, we leave them. And people appreciate that there's a flash of unwanted color. It makes it different and special and it's part of the artistic process.”
Nazzy BeglariWomen's Hand-Loomed Cotton Dress | One Size
Mahnaz CollectionWomen's Vintage 1960 Archimede Seguso Italian Glass and Metal Necklace
Mahnaz CollectionWomen's Vintage LALAoUNIS Greek 18-Karat Yellow Gold Cuff Bracelet
Mahnaz CollectionWomen's Vintage 1975 Pierre Cardin French Gold-Tone and Silver-Tone Flower Necklace
Nazzy BeglariWomen's Hand-Loomed Ikat Silk and Cotton Dress | One Size
Nazzy Beglari
Nazzy BeglariWomen's Hand-Loomed Ikat Cotton Reversible Chapan-Style Robe | One Size
Mahnaz CollectionWomen's Vintage 1970 Liisa Vitali for Nestor Westerback Pitsi 14-Karat Gold Earrings
Mahnaz: “So much craft has died out because the level of time and attention, and the economy that upheld this level of craftsmanship, has died. Technological advances took some of them away, but now you see a movement back to handmade and the younger generation is contributing to that, coming from a sustainability and environmental perspective. For me, to preserve and show the different techniques and the different materials that jewelers have used over time is really important for this generation to see. These are important things to share, and I don't just mean with those who think like me or who like things lI do, but who share the same curiosities. I have clients that I particularly love to see, because they really want to know about this piece because there's something about it that speaks to them. They're not sure why, but they love it, and it leads to a really wonderful conversation.”
Nazzy: “A lot of textile craftmanship is not going to last if we don’t preserve it, as younger generations are not willing to continue what their grandparents or their great grandparents did. It's sad because it’s not just industry, but there's so much ritual involved. In India, they collect vegetables and flowers, they boil them and pray while doing so—that's so precious for me. They treat it as ritual, not as a source of income or business. I treat our business the same. We are a small company, intentionally. The maximum we produce per year is maybe 100 to 150 pieces because this way we can produce unique pieces with meaningful patterns and special textiles. The market is driven towards fast everything but we are the opposite. We want to be slow and don't want to make too much money, just enough to live and keep our team happy.”
Mahnaz: “Our team is very collegial; we're all women and that brings a very collaborative kind of engagement. I have always, in different careers of mine, supported women leadership. I worked for 10 years at the Ford Foundation during the 1990s supporting groups who would help women around the world find the most positive sources of law within their religion, or if there were secular women, fund their human rights work. This has always been something that mattered to me. My mother used to march down the streets in Karachi wearing armbands and was a huge feminist. I don't think I'm a huge anything, but I've never been afraid. In the 1970s I was in graduate school and studying nuclear weapons. My colleagues were all guys from the U.S. Army and Navy. I never thought why am I doing this as a woman? I thought, I'm interested in this, it's affecting our world, so I'm going to study it.”
Nazzy BeglariWomen's Hand-Loomed Ikat Cotton Reversible Chapan-Style Robe | One Size
Mahnaz CollectionWomen's Vintage 1970 Virgil Dishta Silver and Turquoise Ranger Belt
Mahnaz CollectionWomen's Vintage 1985 Hervé van der Straeten French Gilded Brass Leaf Flower Chain Necklace
Nazzy BeglariWomen's Hand-Loomed Ikat Silk Dress | One Size
Nazzy: “Mahnaz’s collection of Indian American jewelry is breathtakingly beautiful and meaningful. It's a history that you don't see anywhere else, and she's managed to collect that and explain the meaning. That's why I respect Mahnaz for amassing extraordinary collections that I don't think anyone else has. When I saw her Indian American collection, I wanted to buy everything. She opened my eyes to something so beautiful and the connection of turquoise, because I'm originally Iranian and in Persian culture it has a special meaning because so much of the country in terms of geography is desert and turquoise represents water. I was shocked to see that Indian Americans also appreciate turquoise. For me, it was two cultures connecting somewhere and it was a very good lesson, and I'm so thankful to Mahnaz to opening my eyes to appreciate something that was right around the corner in the US and I was so negligent about.”
Mahnaz: “The funny thing about Nazzy’s work is that my second great passion is textiles. If I hadn't been a jewelry person, I would have ended up, perhaps, in textiles. But right now, I like to just pile them up. I'm always wearing Nazzy’s clothes, I love the Uzbek fabrics, I love the embroidery, and I love the slight eccentricity of them. These days, I'm loving the pinstripe kaftans she's doing because they're so feminine, but they're really office-y. They're kind of workwear-gone-Queen-of-Sheba and I like to think that some of my jewelry is also that combination of things.”
Nazzy: “I have to quote a very famous Iranian filmmaker and poet Abbas Kiarostami, who passed away a few years ago. He said that we, as artists, should focus on common points and similarities of different cultures and humans. Dividing is the politician's job. That's their job to divide people, to focus on divisions. And once I learned that lesson, I found so many similarities in different cultures that I've visited. And I think Mahnaz has the same thing… it’s like our umbilical cord to our culture. Maybe in a direct or unconscious way we're all looking for our own identity, and along the way we discover another culture who shares the same identity with us. I think that's the beauty of Mahnaz Collection. Because she discovers other identities that are beautiful, more emotional, more meaningful, and they connect us all together.”
Nazzy BeglariWomen's Hand-Loomed Ikat Silk and Cotton Reversible Robe | One Size
Mahnaz CollectionWomen's Vintage 1980 Alexis Lahellec Gilt Metal, Resin and Amber Necklace
Mahnaz: “I think it's my mind that couldn't do anything else. I do have four major collections which I keep building and then outside of those is where I dream about all these different things. In terms of style, other than wearing Nazzy, my own style is very simple in the daytime: beautiful tailoring, beautiful cuts, lovely fabrics, colors that I love. My mother used to wear Issey Miyake and I came to Issey Miyake very late and it completely turned my mind upside down in terms of thinking about color because they are really radical in their thinking about color.”
Nazzy: “Understanding color is important. In my experience, people always go to safe, dark colors. I always say try new, sharp colors, like a cardinal or shocking pink. It doesn’t have to be head to toe like that, but a pink shawl over black will change everything instantly. I do think that there are certain rules you need to know in order to break them. Like understanding the proportion of your body, what will look good on you, what are the basic design elements in your wardrobe—like a crisp white shirt, pencil skirt or raincoat. Style very much depends on your personality and imagination. I don't like to copy others. I can be inspired, but I should wear what I feel comfortable in."
Nazzy BeglariWomen's Hand-Loomed Ikat Velvet and Silk Reversible Robe | One Size
Mahnaz CollectionWomen's Vintage Iradj Moini 18-Karat Gold-Plated Brass, Peridot, Citrine, Onyx, Pearl and Swarovski Crystal Brooch Pendant
Nazzy BeglariWomen's Hand-Loomed Ikat Cotton Dress | One Size
Mahnaz CollectionWomen's Vintage 1980 Alexis Lahellec Gilt Metal, Resin and Amber Necklace
Nazzy: "I think one of the biggest lessons I learned was from one of my first editors who was a very experienced, seasoned editor. When I started my work, he told me when you are covering the story, try to understand it, because if you don't understand it you cannot tell it. That lesson, I apply to every aspect of my life. If I don't understand the food, how can I cook and offer it to my friends? If I don't understand the spirit of this fabric, how can I explain it to my clients? That's why I travel and spend time with the weavers, the people who dye the fabrics, and even the suppliers. This is this an important part of my work: learn the story and tell ity to our clients and create something that transfers good energy.”
Mahnaz: "I've been given so much advice from so many people, even when I didn't realize it. My grandmother, for example, was a tough woman and she would always come to me and say, ‘whatever you do, be a lady,’ and what she meant by that is that you can be very tough and negotiate very hard, but never be cruel to anyone; always be polite, and always be kind.”
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