The Jewelry Issue with Jill Newman

New York-based editor and jewelry authority Jill Newman travels far and wide in pursuit of new treasures. Here, she sees our assortment from Mahnaz Collection in a new light.

“It must be because she tackles a genre that’s just not been commercially popular,” says Jill Newman, a long-time supporter of Mahnaz Ispahani Bartos, who first showcased her collection in her Park Avenue apartment long before opening her Madison Avenue gallery. Reflecting on the curated assortment available today, Jill observes a noticeable shift: “It’s stronger now, with a much broader scope—what she selects is so distinctive and truly represents the best of the designer or era it comes from.”

For Jill, the Mahnaz Collection gallery is a place of wonder, filled with fascinating stories and rich histories. “Say you go in and gravitate towards something—she’ll explain why this person was influential. She is a master curator and expert the world over.”

In anticipation of our latest collection of vintage fine jewels from Mahnaz Collection—described by Jill as “eclectic and unexpected”—she shares gems of wisdom on everything from sourcing to styling, from the true makings of a forever piece to the art of layering.

Now & Forever

“When building a collection, focus less on its potential return on investment and more on finding what you truly love. So often, jewelry is valued based on attributes like carat weight or the type of stone, but when you look at Mahnaz Collection, it’s about the whole piece—the artist, the composition, the point of view. A considered collection should have a balance: timeless, everyday pieces, and also more expressive, signature items.

One of my favorite pieces is the sterling silver and rock crystal necklace by Vivianna Torun for Georg Jensen; it’s such an iconic piece that is still so collectible and hard to find. The materials don’t necessarily have huge monetary value, but it has that strong style and design by Vivianna who truly set a new standard in jewelry. I liken this approach to art—it’s not about the value of the canvas and the paint, but rather the overall aesthetic and the artist’s body of work. Mahnaz Collection reflects that philosophy. Another callout when it comes to a well-rounded collection has to be the bold and colorful work of Giorgio Facchini, as his pieces are wearable without being fussy. Mahnaz has this special ability to curate pieces with a casual ease that will effortlessly merge with anyone’s style.

Another name I’m always delighted to see is Art Smith, one of the first Afro-Caribbean jewelers and a pioneering modernist of the mid-20th century. His influence on black designers is huge, and his handcrafted pieces have a kinetic, sculptural quality that is so distinctive. When you understand the perseverance behind these pieces—often created without recognition—you appreciate them even more. You hear the stories of these artists, and you want to own something that reflects these pivotal moments in time.”

“We don’t need to limit ourselves to certain metals or stones for specific seasons. I always say yes to mixing metals!”

Jill Newman

A Bohemian Boom

“There’s a strong bohemian aesthetic in jewelry right now, with a growing appetite for beadwork and colorful pendants, and I think this is here to stay. Elias Jade Not Afraid is a wonderful example of this style. He’s from the Apsáalooke (Crow Nation) tribe, and his beadwork is not only intricate and beautiful but also a bit edgy. He’s taken traditional craftsmanship and made it feel modern. Some of his pieces have even earned a spot in the Metropolitan Museum of Art. That’s what makes Mahnaz’s line-up so special—you have the jewelers you already love, like Georg Jensen, alongside new discoveries that open up entirely new worlds, like Elias Jade Not Afraid.

The lean towards boldness happening right now captures the zeitgeist of the 1980s, and this is felt in the insect-inspired designs of Iradj Moini. His bug brooches and pendants are such wonderful pieces. The scarab, in particular, has been coveted since Ancient Egyptian times as a sign of rebirth and transformation. What a beautiful sentiment, especially for a gift.

If I were talking to a collector, my best advice would to be open-minded. I used to stick with a certain style, but now I’m more experimental, and it’s been such a fun shift. I love wearing a piece I wouldn’t have considered before, like a long swinging pendant, and seeing the reactions it gets.”

“Neutral sterling silvers—like a bracelet by Theresia Hvorslev for Alton—work wonderfully with a beaded necklace.”

Jill Newman

On Layering

“Layering definitely has its time, but I personally love wearing one strong statement piece on its own. That’s the beauty of Mahnaz’s selection—the combination of shape, texture and color in each piece is so beautiful that when you layer, you risk losing the integrity. That said, there are ways I would integrate these pieces into a collection, especially the pendants. While they’re bold in scale, they’re not at all overpowering. For example, I never take off a necklace made from the stone of my mother’s engagement ring, and a pendant would complement it beautifully, adding a pop of color and personality to an otherwise quieter piece.

Layering is an opportunity for experimentation and self-expression. You want to wear something that makes you feel sexy, empowered, or even serve as a conversation starter. The beauty of collecting jewelry is finding pieces you love and then figuring out all the different ways to wear them. For instance, neutral sterling silvers—like a bracelet by Theresia Hvorslev for Alton—work wonderfully with a beaded necklace, while a Murano glass necklace from the likes of Seguso pairs beautifully with Georg Jensen’s more understated designs. One thing I’d caution, though, is wearing color with color.

When it comes to jewelry, I don’t follow many rules—except comfort and intuition. There’s no hard-and-fast rule about how many signature pieces you can wear at once. The late Iris Apfel is proof of that. We don’t need to limit ourselves to certain metals or stones for specific seasons, and definitely not the outdated idea that your jewelry must match your watch. Instead, I always say yes to mixing metals!”

Portals to the Past

“There are a few things that make vintage jewelry so special. Often (though not always) antique jewels are made a little better and a little differently, crafted by hand rather than by machine. This isn’t to diminish the new; I enjoy a mix of both past and present, but there’s a certain soulfulness in seeing the imperfections that come with the human touch, whether it’s the hand-hammered quality of Andrew Grima or the unique aesthetic of Vivianna Torun.

I think fine craftsmanship is palpable when you hold a piece. You can feel it—the tangible smoothness that speaks to how the piece was made. How the stones are set and secured. Jewelry touches your skin, so the wearing experience has to feel right; it’s all about how earrings sit, how a necklace lays, how a bracelet moves on your wrist.

One thing to always keep in mind, especially with collectible jewelry, is that care should never be overlooked. Storage is key. Drawers with compartments are the best option—not only do they help prevent scratches, but having everything laid out helps you decide what to wear each morning. If drawers aren’t an option, a velvet pouch is a great alternative.”