Swedish jeweler Vivianna Torun Bülow-Hübe was the first internationally renowned, pioneering female designer who was closely aligned with the Georg Jensen company since 1967. Hers was an entirely original and unique practice. Her groundbreaking silversmithing in the mid-20th century challenged traditional design codes and perceptions of femininity. She pushed the boundaries of sterling silver, using functional, nature-inspired forms as a way of seamlessly integrating jewels with the body’s contours. Picasso was an admirer, giving her an extended exhibition at his museum in Antibes. Speaking of her approach to jewelry, Torun said, “It should enhance and move with the body so that it blends with you. It must not overwhelm, but enhance you.” Note the rock crystal set into this sterling silver necklace, a detail Torun likened to a water droplet trickling down a leaf.